Treestand Hunting Safety Tips We All Should Know

We've all heard this one safety tip about hunting from treestands. Always wear a safety harness when hunting from a treestand!  We all tell anyone who's interested in hunting that this is the most important safety facet of treestand hunting.  Howevever there is more to safety than just wearning your harness. Preparation is just as important to insure your safety in the field as wearing a harness.

Like all sports, hunting requires measure of preparation.  Why? Because preparation is the best way to assure that you succeed in the field, and hunting is no exception to that rule.

In a previous hunting post we discussed the different types of treestands, however we never discussed the things required to keep us safe while hunting from a treestand.  That's the purpose of this post, to discuss the different things we need to do, in and out of season, to keep us safe while hunting from treestands.  So here we go:

Before Hunt:
Inspect Tree Steps, Climbing Sticks & Ladders: Whether your treestands and their parts are new or old you should be inspecting every inch of the stands. For me, that means starting with the items that are gonna get me up the tree.  The first things I inspect are any treesteps or ladders that I'm gonna use to climb the tree.   When I'm inspecting my steps and ladders I'm looking for these things:

• Rust spots - Any places that have rust spots (especially weld points) get sanded down, reprimed and painted with rust inhibiting spray paint.  If it's rusted through too thouroughly then I begin to consider replacing the item where possible.  But my last option is welding replacement pieces on to stands or ladders. 
• Peeling Grit Tape - Replacing the grit tape the most commonly replaced item on my stands and ladders. For $4.00 at home depot I can replace an item on my stand that will aid me in staying stable when I'm hunting in wet conditions.  A couple minutes to peel the old tape off a wipe down with some soap and water or goo-gone to remove the excess old glue and I'm good to go to add the new grit tape. 
• Broken, Rusty or Defective Nuts & Bolts - Any nuts and bolts that are rusty, broken or defective get replaced immediately.  However I don't just go to walmart and buy nuts and bolts of the same size. I go to a hardware store and try to match the nuts and bolts exactly and spray them down with rust inhibitor before placing them in my stands. 
• Frayed or Cut Straps - If the straps that hold my steps or ladders have any wear or rips in
  
  them I replace them immediately.  A trip to any craft store and I have more than enough feet of straps to replace the ones that are damaged.  Simply by replacing the straps you are making sure your tree steps are stands dont shift or fall upon having your weight added to them. 
• Damaged Ratchets - Since ratchets are the only moving parts on your tree steps, climbing sticks or ladders I make sure I'm meticulous about checking for rust every where.  Since this parts move that means there will be a combination of friction and rust which can team up to give me a bad fall if not taken care of.  So any damaged or rusty ratchets get the boot and replaced. In the case of the straps that have plastic strap adjusters that cause the straps to lock into place, if they are cracked I replace those as well.  Joann Fabrics and Michaels craft stores carry the plastic strap adjusters in any size you need. 

Inspect Harness (Continuously): Your safety harness is the only thing stopping you from coming to an abrupt halt if you fall from your treestand.  As a result it is the most important item in your hunting gear and as such needs to be checked continuously for damage.  In the case of my safety harnesses, if they have any damage I dont repair them I replace them.  However in the case of vest style full body harnesses miner wear and tear can be fixed via your local taylor. Also they carabiners that lock to the tree can easily be replaced but if you're going to replace them don't skimp on carabiner.  Go to a store that sells professional climbing gear and get a good one.  You won't be upset with what you get, the carabiners that rock climbers use are equal in strength to the originals or stronger and ofter much lighter in weight.

Inspect and practice with your linemans belt: If you're like me and end up placing multiple stands each year or your use portable climbing sticks to hang stands on public land, you'll want to learn how to use a lineman's belt.  Pretty much what lineman's belt does is climb with you while you'r ascending and descending your tree.  Why is this important? Because most falls from a treestand occur when you're climbing up or descending your tree and the lineman's belt gives you a lifeline during those times. So if you're using a lineman's belt You're checking for the very same things that you are on safety harness.  Below is a video of who you can make your own lineman's belt and below that is a list of the materials need with links to where you can purchase.



Lineman's Belt Materials:

• 11mm static mountain climbing rope click here
• Ropeman ascender  click here
• 7mm static mountain climbing rope if using a prusik knot click here
• 3 Aluminum climbing carabiner click here

Practice Setting Up and Using Your Stands: Once you've checked and repaired all of your equipment the next thing that should be on your list of to do's is to practice using your stands and harnesses. Practicing setting up my stands before the hunting season helps me in a couple of ways.  First it gets me familiar with the parts of my stands thus making it easier to set them up quickly and quietly when I'm in the field.  Secondly when it comes to my climbers and hang on stands it allows me to see if there are any things I can do eliminate unecessary noise produced while setting up or walking to stand.

Practice Self Rescue: The worst thing that can happen while you're out hunting is that you can fall out of your stand.  Even with a harness falling from a stand can be a painful ordeal not only that but a difficult ordeal to get yourself out of.  So one of the things I do is I practice self rescues with all of my gear on before I get into the field.

By practicing self rescues you learn more than anything what you need as an outdoorsmen or woman to keep yourself safe up in the tree.  While hanging a safe distance from the ground you'll learn if you're muscles are not capable of pulling yourself upright.  Also you'll see if, upon a fall, your harness will actually keep you from hanging upside down and if not you'll quickly start trying to trouble shoot this problem.  You'll also learn if your upon a fall you'll learn to recognize how high you should have your tether rope attached to the tree.  By knowing this you can place your tether rope at a height that makes it easier for you to get back into stand safely.

Lastly, by practicing self rescues you'll give yourself the knowledge to quickly get yourself back on stand after a fall without having to do any major problem solving. Hopefully because you've seen all of the possible problems that could happen from a safe height.


During Hunt:

Select safe tree
The first part of selecting your tree is knowing what you're looking for in a tree.
1. Look for trees that are alive, so dont climb trees with dead limbs or that are wrapped in vines.
2. Choose straight trees or trees that lean slightly backwards
3. For Climing Stands avoid trees with smooth bark that have bark that strips off easily


Once you've selected your tree make sure you take time to climb your tree before actual hunting season starts.  This will give you the opportunity to do a these essential things:

• check for any shooting lanes that need to be cut from your line of sight.  
• clear any limbs that will stop you from getting to the height you want to hunt from. 
• Install any screws or hanging aids you'll need while hunting

Once you've set up your treestand and are ready to get into the field. Make sure when climbing you're using the 3 point rule when ascending or descending stand.  (Three limbs are always in contact with the tree) Not only this but make sure you're using your linemans rope and climbing without your equipment attached to you.  Any equipment attached to you when you're climbing your tree can throw off your balance causing you to fall.  Simply use a haul rope for your extras, it'll save you pain and expense in the long run. 

When not to hunt from a treestand. 

• If you're already fatigued dont hunt from a treestand.  Fatigue can be a killer if you need to practice a self rescue from 20 feet up. 
• Finally if you it is raining with thunder and lightning do not climb up into a metal stand making yourself into a giant lightning rod. 

Quick Tips:

• If using strap on tree steps, leave your highest steps in the tree so you have less to put up in the darkness when hunting. 
• Set up your tree steps a couple of feet above your stand so you can step down into the stand rather than pulling yourself up. 
• Use screw in steps for hanging equipment above your stand, not as steps to climb
• Screw in steps can shatter under extremely cold conditions
• Screw in steps set below your stand can inpale you if you fall from your tree
• If you're using a climbng stand ascend and descend only 12 inches at a time
• A small piece of carpetting on the stand floor quiets the stand, warms your feet and makes it less slippery
• Make sure someone knows where you'll be hunting and how long you'll be hunting
• Always wear a safety harness when hunting from a treestand 

Understanding Hunting Treestands

At some point as a hunter you have to make the decision whether or not you'll be hunting on the ground or from a tree.  Early on you'll notice the pros and cons of hunting each way.  Pros like the flexibility of being able to move on the fly when you're hunting on the ground or the greater field of view from a treestand. Whatever your considerations, at some point you'll need to know whether you'll be hunting on the ground or from a tree.  For those times when you feel it's best to hunt from an elevated position, here is a brief overview of the different kinds of treestands with their pros and cons.


Ladder Stands

Description:
Ladder stands are treestands where the ladder, platform and seat are all connected. They're a perfect option for hunters who have no intention of moving the stand throughout the season.  Ladder stands are also a great option for hunters with a moderate to lower fitness level becuase the larger ladder makes it easier to climb. As well they offer very stable platforms for standing or sitting because the stand is always seated on the ground.

Ladder stands have the largest platforms and seats of the four kinds of treestands.  In fact some ladder stands are large enough to seat two hunters at once which is great if you're hunting with a kid, someone inexperienced or filming a hunt.

Pros:

• Ladder stands are comfortable with large seats and platforms.
• Some ladder stands can seat multiple hunters.
• Ladder stands are very stable
• Ladder stands are quiet due to the lack of moving parts.
• Ladder stands are relatively easy to climb
• Ladder stands have the highest weight capacities 

Cons:

• Ladder stands are heavy 
• Ladder stands require to people to erect
• Ladder stands are not portable

Tips:

First, ladder stands have heights between 15 feet and 18 feet.  This limited height leaves your feet standing at about 12 feet from the ground leaving you within the edges of a deers peripheral vision. So consider setting up ladder stands on hill above whatever travel route you're hunting. This will get your farther out of a deers field of vision view while increasing your own field of vision.

Second, set ladder stands up in trees that have large low hanging branches whenever possible.  The large branches will break up your sihlouette and camoflage your movements.

Third, make sure the trunk of the tree you're setting up in is at least the same width of the ladder portion of the stand. This will help you and the stand go unnoticed by any wary deer.

Lastly, add brush and fallen branches around the base of ladder stands to give them more cover.

Hang On Stands

Description:
Hang on stands are one piece treestands that connect to the tree with either a chain or straps.  Hang on stands have small seats without seat backs, with a few exceptions.

Due to their small size and low weights hang on stands are pretty easy to move and erect without the help of another person.  Hang stands require climbing sticks or screw in steps in order to get into whatever tree you choose.  These climbing aids can be cumbersome, noisy and time consuming to attach your tree of choice, which will slow you down if you want to change trees on the fly.

On the other hand the versatility of hang on stands is where they shine.  Hang on stands can be placed in any tree you choose. If the tree is too large or shaped in an odd way, you can simply change out the chain or straps that support the stand with ones that will fit your favorite tree.

Pros:

• Hang on stands are portable.
• Hang on stands work on any tree.
• Hang on stands are light weight.
• Hang on stands are easy to set up with one person.
• Hang on stands are not easily detected in the tree. 

Cons:

• Hang on stands have small platforms and seats
• Hang on stands require climbing sticks
• Hang on stands are not comfortable
• Hang on stands can be easier to fall from

Tips:

First, attach shoulder and waist straps to the platform to make hang on stands easier to transport to and from the field.

Second, make sure you purchase the lightest weight stand you possibly can. The less the stand weighs the less fatigue you have from moving it around and setting it up.

Third, use the best and lightest ladder system you can afford. By doing this you'll make your in field set up faster and make trasporting stand far more enjoyable.

Fourth, walk around with your stand and listen for any places that make noise from metal on metal contact. Once the noisy places are found, wrap them in parachord or heat shrink to eliminate the noise made by metal on metal contact.

Lastly, always do a safety check on your hang on stands before and after the season.  When doing this check for rusted bolts, chains, frayed straps or anything else that can potentially be a hazard.

Climbing Stands

Description:
Climbing stands are treestands that have two individual parts that aid hunters in climbing trees.

Climbers tend to be a bit heavier than hang on stands.  However they make up for that weight with comfort and mobility.

Mobility is what makes climbers a great choice for public land hunters.  Climbers allow public land hunters to move quickly and easily if necessary.  Pretty much for a climbing treestand to work all you need is a straight tree between 8 inches and 22 inches in circumference and you're good to go.

Pros:

• Climbing treestands are highly portable
• Climbing treestands are light weight
• Climbing treestands are easy to set up
• Climbing treestands are comfortable

Cons:

• Climbing treestands can be noisy when climbing
• Climbing treestands are limited to straight trees
• Climbing treestands are limited to trees 8" to 22" in circumference
• Climbing treestands have small platforms like hang on treestands
• Climbing treestands require a moderate fitness level to use

Tips:
First, purchase the lightest climbing stand you can afford because you'll be carrying it on your back quite a bit.
Second, attach a set of backpack and waist straps to your stand to make transporting it easier and more comfortable.
Third, make sure you walk around wearing the stand prior to hunting and listen for any metal on metal contact.  The places that have the sound of metal on metal contact, wrap them in parachord, heat shrink or bike tire rubber to silence the noise.
Fourth, scout your area heavily before hunting so you can pick out possible trees before getting in the field.  There is nothing worse than trying to find a suitable tree in the dark.
Lastly, practice setting up your stand and climbing trees prior to hunting.  This practice will help you when you have to set the stand up and climb a tree in the dark.

Tower Stand

Description:
Tower stands are not treestands.  Unlike treestands they are free standing and dont require a tree for set up. Some of them are just a tripod with a seat on top.  Some tower stands even have small blinds that sit on top for the users.

The main benefit of tower stands is that they can be set up anywhere. In fact they are ideal for areas that have no suitable trees for treestands, like scrublands.



Pros:

• Tower stands are free standing 
• Tower stands can be set up anywhere
• Tower stands are comfortable
• Tower stands are easy to climb

Cons:

• Tower stands are heavy
• Tower stands require 2 or more people for setup
• Tower stands provide no cover
• Tower stands are noisy to set up
• Tower stands are not portable 

Tips for Being A Successful Hunter

Everyday I read different tips on how to increase your chances as a hunter.  These tips are things we all know, but in many cases, these are things that we fail to remember.  I know I'm guilty of not being consistent. But, despite my failures, I try my best to abide by these simple tips.

1. Scout from home and in the field:
Scouting is something that should be done before and after your hunting season. One of the smartest things you can do is pull up topo maps of the areas you want to hunt that coming season. long before deer season begins. I use google earth to get maps and then print the images on 11" x 17" paper making myself a bingo book of all the properties I'd like to check out.
 
From there, I spend my time hiking and/or shed hunting in these areas in spring, using my day of hiking as an excuse to map different landmarks, food sources, and deer signs.

As the season get's closer, I make sure I get out to see if the travel patterns have changed.  I'll spend my late afternoons sitting near  fields with binoculars and camera in hand waiting to see which trails the deer are using to get to the food sources like soy beans. If you have trail cameras, this is the time to set them out and let your trail cameras do the work for you.  Because I hunt mostly public land, I try not to use trail cameras for fear of theft or alerting other hunters of my plan.

When scouting, you want to use any and every resource you have so be sure to shine at night, where legal, and ask farmers and land owners around where you hunt what they're seeing.

2. Mark the food and water sources
Animals have to eat and drink. So, while you're out there scouting, make sure you're marking the different sources of food and water. Keep in mind that as the seasons change, food and water sources change as well. If  you notice that the deer are happily feeding from feeders you place on your property, please remember that this may change as different food sources become available as the seasons change. This is doubly true for those of us who hunt public land where the deer may be feeding on soft shoots of budding trees, but once nearby corn fields start growing tall enough to hide in, the deer seem to disappear. Get to know what food sources feed your deer herd during different parts of the year.  This year,  I started studying  the different native trees and plants  in my area and which ones bear fruit at different times of the year.

3. Plan entry and exit routes
This tip is the one that many hunters forget.  Make sure you take time to plan out how you're going to get to your stand and out of it without alerting every deer in the woods of your presence.  Make sure you can enter and exit downwind of the area you're hunting and have more than one option just in case the wind is not what you expect when you get into the field.  When you plan this  in advance, it may force  you to rethink your stand locations.

4. Find the does
This is probably the one thing you really want to do especially when the rut is coming on.  If you know

where the does are when the rut is coming up,you can guarantee there will be a few bucks sniffing around for some lovin'.

5. Hunt the hunters
This may sound kind of weird, but it's very important.  You need to know where the other hunters are going to be located in your area.  I don't know how many times I've set up, particularly for gun season, along escape routes that I know the deer will take when the firing starts, helping me fill my tags earlier than the other hunters. Remember, deer rely on their sense of smell, so if you're in an area where you know the deer will be retreating once the scent of humans fills the air, then you're on your way to filling your tags.

You just don't want to be in your stand or ground blind and have some person come tramping through the area you're hunting trying to get to their stand.  We've all been there and it sucks.

6. Hunt along travel and escape routes:
It is very tempting to hunt bedding areas and food sources for deer, but  I don't for a couple of reasons. When it comes to hunting bedding areas, I steer clear of them in order to let the deer have their place of security. If you spook the deer off of a bedding area, there is a fair chance you may change their routines for a while and screw up your chances of harvesting an animal for a while.  As far as hunting food sources, this is something I stay away from because so many other hunters like to crowd the food sources. While it may be effective, there is a higher risk of someone else disturbing your hunt as well as a risk of the deer not coming out until after legal shooting hours.  I tend to hunt the travel routes and escape routes in order to catch the deer passing through and I have little risk of spooking the deer off of a heavily used food source.

7. Control your scent:
We've all heard this before, you must fool a deer's nose if you're going to harvest one.  So make sure you're doing the basics of scent control every time you're hunting.

1. Wash your clothes in scent eliminating detergent.
2. Use cover scents natural to your hunting area.
3. Get dressed in the field.
4. Bathe in scent eliminating soap.

8. Hunt the wind:
Even when you do everything correct with scent control, there is one thing you still have to do in order to fool a deer's sense of smell.  That is hunt downwind of the paths you expect the deer to follow.  Be constantly conscious of wind directions while you're hunting.  If the wind is blowing in a direction that will negatively affect where your normal stand choice, move. Even the best scent elimination techniques are flawed and the wind will snitch on you every time, if you don't pay attention.

9. Be aggressive and flexible when necessary:
Don't be afraid to get out of your ground blind or tree stand and be aggressive when chasing deer or other game.  Even the best ambush points fail sometimes, so get up and don't be afraid to try spot and stalk techniques in order to increase your chances of putting some meat on the table.
Remember that hunting situations will never be exactly the same from day to day, so be flexible and always have a back up plan in case the wind changes or hunting pressure picks up in your area.

10. Journal your hunts:
This is something I do when hunting and fishing.  I consistently keep a journal of my hunting trips in order to learn from my successes and failures.  My journal, along with my map book, keeps me aware of things that may have changed on the properties that I hunt.  For example, storms that may have downed a large number of trees which affects deer movement patterns or bedding areas and new sources of food  may pop up because of farmed land that may not have been farmed the year prior.

11. Learn:
Above every tip I've given in this post, the most important thing is to know that you don't know it all.  There is so much knowledge out there and it's up to you to get out there and learn something new.  Don't be afraid to ask someone more knowledgeable than you and definitely don't be afraid to really study up on the game animal you love to pursue.

I'm sure we all have a tips that can help each other become better hunters so please feel free to let me know some of your suggestions for being a better hunter.